Thanks for the feedback!

I’m pretty happy with the transparencies tbh. Although on mine, there seems to be two sides, one that gives a fuzzy dirty effect with a lot of stray toner around the actual print (looks like static), and the other side that gives perfectly crisp prints. Unfortunately I can’t really tell the sides apart.

Apart from that small speck of dust that prevented the transfer at the top left of the logo, the sheet came out perfectly clean, the totality of the toner was transferred to the dial. For PCB transfers where you could probably keep the sheet intact (I had to cut mine to fit between the applied indices), that would also mean the sheet would be almost indefinitely reusable.

If you can clamp a whole PCB on the bed, that’s a perfect application ;)

Ah perfect timing indeed.

The key takeaway indeed matches yours: it’s not a Voron despite being heavily inspired by it, there are some annoyances but at this price point it’s forgivable and most of them seem to have workarounds (someone in the comments suggested letting the machine fully soak heat before performing Z-offset calibration), the open-source nature might bring a lot of third-party upgrades in the future.

Also, the reviewer’s unit has some abnormal wear on the belts. Does it match your experience?

All in all, it seems to be a decent budget CoreXY printer with a very large volume at 1/3 the price of an LDO Voron kit + PIF parts, with a much quicker assembly but some potential pitfalls.

If this eventually becomes the Ender 3 of CoreXY printers that can be frankensteined into a a much higher quality printer over time, I’m all for it.

Than you so much for such a detailed analysis!

For reference, I’ve had a (heavily modded) Creality Ender 3 V2 for a few years, and I’ve hit a limit in terms of speed and quality.

The filament path between the extruder and hotend is poorly-constrained, making it a pain to load The auto-z calibration is often just a smidge off It uses a custom nozzle/heater

If it’s possible to install a Stealthburner instead of the standard extruder/hotend combo, it might solve most of these issues. Maybe some people are working on a V6 or Mk8 style hotend (I have a metric fuckton of Mk8 nozzles laying around)…

The fans are absurdly loud. All of them.

OK Noctua upgrades then. Compared to an already absurdly loud Ender 3, is it worse?

The mainboard is effectively a BTT CB1 and Fystec Cheetah on a single board Their software customizations are of dubious quality

Would a Voron-style mainboard + RPi + standard Klipper solve these issues or are there fundamental incompatibilities?

Thanks!

BallisticNG. Incredible WipEout homage, Linux native, VR compatible, runs locked at 60fps on Deck. Fun tracks, cool ships, nice lore. Physics and mechanics are by default more geared towards classic PSX games (1, 2097, 3), with “modern” physics and mechanics (Pure/Pulse/HD with absorb, barrel roll etc.) getting an overhaul in the next version.

Best “Classic WipEout” homage I ever played.

Vita3k + WipEout 2048 + HD DLC + Fury DLC = almost Omega Collection on PC 🤣

Runs great on Steam Deck too.

BallisticNG

Hey fellow WipEout junkie 👋

You and me brother.

Which machine did you choose? I went for the Lelit Bianca, never regretted it.

Same. Old DB2 base from the 80’s that was migrated to Oracle in the 90’s then to Postgres in the 2010’s.

And the people there know all the column names by heart 😅

I learned this week-end that Vita3k runs great on the Deck and that game compatibility has tremendously advanced, so I’m doing WipEout 2048 right now :D

Ubuntu’s version of Gnome is heavily modified to look and feel like their old Unity DE though. Vanilla Gnome like in Fedora or Arch is a vastly different experience.

Yeah there’s no confusion in French because “étage” literally means “floor above ground”, so calling the ground floor an “étage” makes no sense. It’s called “rez-de-chaussée” (“at street level”) or RDC for short. Same as “sous-sol” (“under-ground”).

I fuckin love vinyls, they’re beautiful, fragile, tangible, massive objects, but this is bullshit propagated by audiophile circle jerk who believe they need to break-in their $100000 solid gold oxygen-free gluten-free audio cables to properly align electrons.

PETG is almost the same material water bottles are made from. I’ve made a soap holder that gets, by definition, constantly wet in PETG and it’s absolutely fine.

Female V’s voice acting is 🔥

It’s like scrolling on your phone, where the content on your screen follows exactly your fingers movements. On Wayland you can do the same with a trackpad, like for example when scrolling, switching workspaces or invoking the activities overview. It feels much nicer, more immediate and more natural than on X.org, where gestures are just triggering a shortcut after a set distance.

There’s also a community built Flatpak if you’re ok with that

May I ask why you, as a beginner, specifically chose one of those distros instead of more “mainstream” ones?

Puppy Linux’s main use-case is to be a live ISO, that doesn’t need to be installed to run. It doesn’t mean it’s not a good idea to install it, but I think if you want to use an Ubuntu derivative, there are better options for a beginner like Pop or Mint that would let you install a lightweight desktop environment like XFCE, LXDE, LXQt and so on.

Alpine Linux is specifically designed to avoid all the core system tools that are pretty much universal on most other distros like glibc, systemd or GNU tools and libraries, which will make your life hell as a beginner if you need to troubleshoot anything as most “universal” documentation like the Arch wiki would be at best partially relevant, at worst useless.

I have for my Kobo Glo HD!

Although I haven’t shared anything since it works for me but is a bit rough.